This depends on what type of lift you're looking at. Here's how to check for each:

Four-Post Lifts (Service Use)

Ceiling height: Look up the overall height of the lift you're considering — you'll find it on the product page under “Product Specs” (on the right side of the page). Add at least one inch to that number, because the posts need to pivot slightly during assembly, which requires a bit of extra clearance. That total needs to be less than your ceiling height.

Floor space: Measure the length and width of the area where you want the lift. Then think about access — can a vehicle reasonably drive onto the runways from the direction of your garage door? You need a clear approach path, not just the footprint of the lift.

Try our 3D Garage Simulator — enter your garage dimensions and drop in a lift to see exactly how it fits.

Four-Post Lifts (Car Storage / Parking)

Everything above applies, plus you need to account for the vehicles. Measure the height of the tallest car you'd park on the bottom and the tallest car you'd put on top. Add those two heights together, then add about 12 inches of clearance. That total needs to fit under your ceiling. This ensures you have enough room to actually store cars on both levels without anything getting crunched.

Two-Post Lifts

Ceiling height: Same as above — check the lift's overall height in “Product Specs” on the product page, add at least an inch for assembly clearance, and compare to your ceiling.

Width: You'll need enough width for the lift's footprint plus room to work around the vehicle with the doors open. Again, the 3D Garage Simulator is the easiest way to check this.

Lifts are heavy — freight companies will not use liftgate service for this equipment because it's too large and too heavy for a liftgate. The truck that shows up will be a full-size semi, and you'll need a way to get the equipment off the back.

Your options:

• Forklift on site. If you don't own one, forklift rental services exist in most areas and are typically affordable for a single day.
• Pick up at a local freight terminal. You can have the shipment held at a nearby freight terminal and pick it up yourself. They'll unload the equipment for you, but you'll need to bring a trailer.
• Professional installation. When you schedule installation with us, the installer can receive and unload the equipment for you — one less thing to worry about.

Generally, no — lift installers focus on the mechanical assembly and anchoring. For the electrical connection, you'd either hire an electrician or have a trusted, knowledgeable friend handle it.

Before your lift arrives, check what voltage it requires — you'll find this in the installation manual for your specific lift. Not every lift runs on the same voltage, and there are often options available for different situations. We recommend getting the power set up before installation day so you can test the lift with the installer there.

For most two-post lifts and many four-post lifts, yes — they need to be anchored into a concrete floor. Your lift's installation manual will tell you exactly what the concrete requirements are for your specific model.

However, many lower-capacity four-post lifts (especially parking/storage lifts) give you the option to skip anchoring altogether and use a set of casters instead, making the lift portable. This is great if you want to be able to move the lift around your garage.

If you go the anchored route and don't want to handle the drilling yourself, an installer will take care of all the anchoring for you.

Absolutely. Anyone can install a lift if they feel qualified and comfortable doing it. Self-installation does not void your warranty and does not make the lift unsafe. Many of our customers install their own lifts successfully.

Every lift comes with a detailed installation manual that walks you through the process step by step. Take your time, follow the manual, and grab a friend to help with the heavy parts. If you run into questions along the way, our team at (800) 647-7883 is happy to help you work through them.

It depends on the lift. Not every lift runs on the same voltage, and many models offer different power options to fit different situations. Check the installation manual for the specific lift you're looking at — it'll list the voltage and phase requirements.

Before your lift arrives, make sure you have the right power available at the location where the lift will go, or have a plan to get it connected. If you're not sure what you have or what you need, give our team a call at (800) 647-7883 and we can help you figure it out.

Every lift has its own concrete requirements — there's no one-size-fits-all answer. Your lift's installation manual will spell out exactly what that specific model needs in terms of thickness and strength.

As a general rule of thumb, most residential garage slabs poured in the last few decades are in the 4–6 inch range, which works for many lifts. But check your specific lift's manual to be sure. If you're not sure how thick your slab is, you can usually check by looking at the edge of the slab near a garage door or where the concrete meets an adjacent surface.

Whether you installed the lift yourself or had a pro do it, it's a good idea to run through these checks before putting it into service:

• Columns are stable and sitting level
• Anchor bolts are tight (if anchored)
• All pins and fasteners are properly installed
• Power is connected and the lift runs in the correct direction
• Cables are adjusted and tensioned properly
• Safety locks engage and release correctly
• No hydraulic leaks
• Oil level is correct
• Nothing overhead (lights, garage door tracks, etc.) is in the way at full height

Your installation manual will have a more detailed checklist specific to your lift — use that as your final reference. This list is a good starting point for any lift.

Check your specific lift's manual for its maintenance and inspection guidelines — they vary by manufacturer and model. Following the manufacturer's recommended maintenance schedule is the best way to keep your lift running safely for the long haul.

For commercial shops, the end user is ultimately responsible for whatever level of compliance applies to their situation. If you're not sure what that looks like for you, give us a call and we can point you in the right direction.